Introduction to Navigation Part 2 Nautical Charts

Today is the second of a series of articles about Navigation. You can advance your Navigation Know How by participating in the Nautical Know How Coastal Navigation Course.

These basics are covered in the online Nautical Know How Basic Boating Safety Course at http://boatsafe.com/navigation . It is highly recommended that, prior to beginning this advanced Coastal Navigation Course, each student successfully complete the Basic Boating Safety Course.

Nautical charts are different from maps in that they specifically depict water areas while maps concentrate on land area, roads, landmarks, etc. Land areas and features on charts are sketchy and are noted only for their interest to the Navigator. Unlike maps, the nautical chart conveys much information specifically designed to assist in safely navigating the area that the chart covers.

Chart Scaling

 The scale of a chart is expressed as a ratio such as 1:80,000. This could also be represented as the fraction 1/80,000. This means that one unit on the chart represents 80,000 of the same units on the earth. The terms “small scale” and “large scale” can be confusing if you haven’t studied fractions recently. The denominator of the fraction (the number under the line) is the number that changes as the scale of the chart changes. The larger the denominator  the smaller the fraction. For instance 1:80,000 is smaller than 1:40,000, so the larger the denominator the smaller the scale of the chart. That is, a 1:80,000 chart would be a small scale while a 1:40,000 would be a large scale.

 Chart Colors

The major water areas are not colored and retain the white color of the paper itself. Shallow water areas, shown in light blue and light green, indicate shallows that are uncovered at some stage of the tide, such as marsh areas.

 Small objects such as buoys and markers are shown in a magenta color. Because charts are used at night under red light (to keep from impairing night vision) the color magenta shows up best at night and in the day.

 Buoys and dayboards that are actually red are indicated in magenta. Green buoys and dayboards are shown in green.

Lighted buoys, regardless of their color, are shown with a magenta dot over the small circle portion of the chart symbol. Cautions, symbols noting danger, compass roses and recommended courses are also noted in magenta.

For more about the Nautical Know How Coastal Navigation Course…READ MORE.

Man Overboard!… and Back Again!

Contributed by: Mike Baron, U.S. Coast Guard Boating Safety Division

Being prepared, moving fast and having the right equipment are key to safe rescues.

In 2011, there were 359 recorded accidents involving a “person in the water” (PIW) or a man overboard (MOB) — an extremely dangerous situation for rescuers and the individual in the water. Knowing what to do and when are essential to maximizing safety and survival.

Raise the Alarm and Keep the Person in Sight
The first person to notice someone overboard should point to the individual, shout “Man overboard!” (followed by “port side” or “starboard side”) and then keep pointing until the person is rescued.

If there is a marine GPS on board, hit the MOB button, which will help you maneuver back to the point of loss. If you’re close enough, throw a buoyant object toward the swimmer to help mark the position and help him stay afloat. But it’s vital that someone keep spotting and pointing at the individual, who may move or be swept to another location.

Contact the Coast Guard, If Appropriate
If the situation could be life threatening, and especially if you lose sight of the person, call for help immediately using your marine VHF radio. Announce “mayday” three times, followed by “man overboard” and give your location, boat description and a description of the victim. Do this three times. You can always make contact again if the rescue is successful and the person is uninjured.

Take Action in the Proper Order: Reach, Throw, Row and Go
Ensure that as you return to the person, the stern and propeller are away from him — keep the victim inside the turning radius of the boat. Never back up to return to the person overboard.

If the person is alert and within an arm’s length, REACH for the victim and pull him toward the boat. After making sure you are wearing a life jacket and have secure footing, extend a pole, paddle, shirt or other object toward the swimmer. If you must use your arm, lie prone on the deck and hang on to a strong point with your other arm — and have another passenger hold your belt or legs, if possible.

If you’re too far to reach the person, THROW something buoyant for him to hold on to, even if he’s wearing a life jacket. It could be a cushion, an extra life jacket or even an empty cooler — anything that could be a location marker and provide extra support for the person in need of retrieval.

If the person is too distant for a throw, ROW — or maneuver — the vessel to him. Always approach the individual from the boat operator’s side, so the MOB remains in view. As you get close, turn off the engine to avoid a propeller strike, toss a buoyant object and help him back aboard.

Only as a last resort should someone GO to a person in the water. If the MOB is unconscious, injured or unable to get aboard without help, and a strong swimmer — ideally someone trained in water rescue — can assist, then a water rescue may be attempted. The rescuer must wear a life jacket and take another buoyant object to keep between himself and the person in the water.

Getting Back on Board
Bringing the person aboard via a boarding ladder, the swim platform or the lowest point on the boat is preferable. On many boats, the best way to retrieve a person is with a good boarding ladder. It should stand off the hull for toe clearance (unlike a rope ladder), and it should be strong, easy to place, firmly attached, long enough for a victim to climb easily and have good handgrips.

To help bring the person aboard, use a lifting strap, a rope with a large loop that can go under the MOB’s arms or two people placing a hand under the MOB’s armpits who can carefully pull him aboard.

Seek medical attention if necessary. The individual may have unseen injuries, may have taken in water or could have hypothermia, confusion and loss of energy.

Practice Makes Perfect
Create a drill and practice it. Doing so will help people remember the steps and ensure they know where flotation devices and emergency equipment are stowed. Try to keep the drill realistic by using a heavy/awkward object in the water, so potential rescuers understand the difficulty of pulling a person aboard. Also, ensure passengers know how to use communication and safety equipment, in case the operator goes overboard.

More Navigation Rules Series – Meeting Situations

In the following situations, the give-way vessel must take action to keep well clear. The stand-on vessel should maintain its course and speed. If it becomes apparent that the actions taken (or not taken) by the give-way vessel are dangerous or insufficient, you should take action to avoid collision.

Meeting Head-On

When two power driven vessels are approaching head-on or nearly so, either vessel shall indicate its intent which the other vessel shall answer promptly. In a meeting situation, neither vessel is the stand-on vessel.

It is generally accepted that you should alter course to starboard and pass port-to-port. The accompanying sound signal is one short blast. If you cannot pass port-to-port due to an obstruction or other vessels, you should sound two short blasts to indicate your intention to pass starboard-to-starboard. Make sure the other vessel understands your intent before proceeding. The other vessel should return your two-short-blast signal.

Passing Port to Port

Passing Starboard to Starboard

Meeting head to Head

*Response not sounded on International Waters

More Navigation Rules Series – Pecking Order

There are a series of scenarios that determine who is the stand-on and who is the give-way vessel. This is sometimes referred to as the “Pecking Order.”

There are two sets of navigation rules; inland and international. A nautical chart will show you the demarcation lines where the rules change from international to inland and vice versa. In general, these demarcation lines follow the coastline and cross inlets and bays. On the seaward side of the demarcation lines, international rules apply.

We will concentrate on the inland rules, since most of your recreational boating will occur on the landward side of the demarcation lines.

The Nav Rules are written with the understanding that not all boats can maneuver with the same ease. Therefore, Rule 18 states that certain vessels must keep out of the way of other vessels due to their ability to maneuver.

A power driven vessel underway must keep out of the way of the following:

• A sailing vessel, under sail only, and vessels propelled by oars or paddles. (Note: when a sailboat has its motor running, it is considered a power driven vessel.)
• A vessel engaged in fishing, whose fishing equipment restricts its maneuverability. This does not include a sport fisher or party boat and generally means a commercial fishing vessel.
• A vessel with restricted maneuverability such as a dredge or tow boat, a boat engaged in work that restricts it to a certain area, or a vessel transferring supplies to another vessel.
• A vessel not under command – broken down.

Each of these vessels must keep out of the way of the next vessel. For example, a sailboat must keep out of the way of a vessel engaged in fishing, which in turn must keep out of the way of a vessel with restricted maneuverability. And everyone must keep out of the way of a vessel not under command.

When two power driven vessels are in sight of one another and the possibility of collision exists, one vessel is designated by the rules as the stand-on vessel and the other is designated as the give-way vessel. The stand-on vessel should maintain its course and speed. The give-way vessel must take early and substantial action to avoid collision.

If it becomes apparent that the actions taken (or not taken) by the give-way vessel are dangerous or insufficient, the stand-on vessel must act to avoid collision.

A Better Way to File a Float Plan

Have you ever been guilty of taking the boat out somewhere remote without telling someone where you’re going and when you’ll be back? Most of us have. Sometimes we even felt guilty for doing so. We all know we should file a float plan before leaving the dock, but the prospect of writing out a plan on a piece of paper, or a template download from the internet, then distributing it to our trusted contacts just seems so, well… antiquated.

There is a better way. Float Plan Registry (http://floatplanregistry.com/) is a free float plan management and automatic overdue notification system for boaters.

With Float Plan Registry, you create an online profile containing your vessel, crew, and emergency contacts. With all your data stored in your secure online profile, you can create and distribute a float plan in seconds using their float plan wizard tool. When you publish your float plan, it is automatically delivered to your contacts by email. A link in the email allows your contacts to view your float plan online. Any changes you make to your float plan are immediately available to your contacts without having to redistribute the plan.

Your vessel profile contains all the relevant information about your boat needed for a float plan including vessel type (power or sail), make, model, year, color, fuel type, HIN, registration number, coastguard documentation number, home port, etc. There’s even a section to add your own detailed vessel description to highlight other unique features about your boat. You can even upload a picture of your boat. All your detailed vessel information is automatically included in any float plan you create.

Your crew list contains vital information about your crew members including name, age, and contact information. You can designate a default set of crew members you normally have aboard so that they are automatically included in your float plans.

Your contact list contains contact information for your emergency contacts – those you want your float plans and overdue notices delivered to. Here again you can define a “default” set of contacts that will automatically be included in your float plans.

Float Plan Registry’s float planning wizard allows you to create two types of checkpoints: passive checkpoints, which do not require a check-in and are simply an informational part of your itinerary, and “active” checkpoints, which are actively monitored by the system to ensure a check-in status is received. Check-in reminders are automatically emailed to you for all active (required) checkpoints that are part of a float plan. The check-in process even allows you to snooze or cancel a checkpoint! In the event that you fail to provide a check-in status for a required checkpoint, your contacts are automatically notified. Try that with your passive paper-based float plan!

Using Float Plan Registry, you can create and share online float plans in seconds. The float planning wizard will automatically include your default vessel, crew, and contacts while also allowing you to choose others from your profile while building a float plan. A guest list is also available to enter information about people aboard that are not part of your crew. When a float plan is published, your contacts are automatically notified and provide a link so they can review your plan online. Changes to your float plan, including check-in status updates and check-in comments are immediately visible to your contacts. The automatic check-in reminder system will remind you to check-in when required. And the automatic overdue notification system will automatically notify your contacts if you are considered overdue for a checkpoint. A vast improvement over the analog paper-based float plan!

To learn more about Float Plan Registry, visit http://floatplanregistry.com/, or try the demo at http://floatplanregistry.com//demo.

 

General Ice Thickness Guidelines

Many outdoor sportsmen and women enjoy the winter months but there are certain things that you should be concerned about when recreating on ice. The following information is courtesy of the Minnesota DNR.

For New, Clear Ice Only

• 2″ or less – STAY OFF
• 4″ – Ice fishing or other activities on foot
• 5″ – Snowmobile or ATV
• 8″ – 12″ – Car or small pickup
• 12″ – 15″ – Medium truck

Remember that these thicknesses are merely guidelines for new, clear, solid ice. Many factors other than thickness can cause ice to be unsafe.

Checking ice thickness

No matter what you are going to do once you get on the ice – like fishing, snowmobiling, skating or even ice boating, it’s a good idea to contact a local bait shop or resort on the lake about ice conditions. It’s also important to do some checking yourself once you get there. Several factors affect the relative safety of ice, such as temperature, snow cover and currents. But a very important factor is the actual ice thickness.

Ice Chisel

The ice chisel or “spud bar” is one of the oldest methods of making a hole in the ice. In its simplest form, it consists of a metal rod with a sharp, flat blade welded onto one end that is driven into the ice in a stabbing motion. Depending on the sharpness of the blade, the thickness of the ice and the strength of the user, it can make a hole in the ice fairly quickly, especially when the ice is less than a foot thick.

 
Ice Auger

There are several varieties of ice auger. Some people like the hand auger for its low cost, light weight and low noise factor. The disadvantage of a hand-powered auger is that after a few holes, operator exhaustion becomes an issue. Some folks like an electric auger, with its low noise level rivaling a hand auger, with the advantage of a lot less work for the user. An electric auger does, however, need an external 12-volt battery, which can be something of a nuisance to lug around. Gas augers boast the fastest speed in drilling through the ice, but are heavier, noisier and generally more costly than hand or electric models.

 

Cordless Drill

There is one tool, that many households have hanging on the pegboard in the basement or on a shelf in the garage that can make checking ice thickness a quick and easy task – a cordless rechargeable electric drill.

With a cordless drill and a long, five-eighths inch wood auger bit, you can drill through eight inches of ice in less than 30 seconds. Most cordless drills that are at least 7.2 volts will work, but the type of bit is critical. You need a wood auger bit since they have a spiral called a “flute” around the shaft that metal drilling bits don’t. The flutes pull the ice chips out of the hole and help keep it from getting stuck, much in the way a full-sized ice auger works. It is important to dry the bit and give it a quick spray of silicone lubricant after each use. Otherwise, the next time you open your toolkit, you’ll find your once shiny drill bit looking like a rusty nail!

Tape Measure

Some people claim they can judge thickness by where the chisel or drill suddenly breaks through, but that happens so quickly, it’s easy to overestimate the thickness. It’s smarter to use a tape measure or something like an ice fisherman’s ice skimmer handle with inch markings to put down the hole and hook the bottom edge of the hole to determine the ice’s true thickness.

Other things to keep in mind when checking ice.
Ice is seldom the same thickness over a single body of water. It can be two feet thick in one place and one inch thick a few yards away due to currents, springs, rotting vegetation or school of rough fish. You need to check the ice at least every 150 feet, especially early in the season or any situation where the thickness varies widely.

Recommended minimum thicknesses for new clear ice.

4″ Ice fishing and small group activities
5″ Snowmobiles and ATVs
8″ – 10″ Small to medium cars, and pickups.

White ice, sometimes called “snow ice,” is only about one-half as strong as new clear ice so the above thicknesses should be doubled.

Vehicles weighing about one ton such as cars, pickups or SUVs should be parked at least 50 feet apart and moved every two hours to prevent sinking. It’s not a bad idea to make a hole next to the car. If water starts to overflow the top of the hole, the ice is sinking and it’s time to move the vehicle!

Happy New Year!

Hate to start off the new year with a negative message but…This is just stupid on soooo many levels.

Prevent Fuel Emissions with a Portable Fuel Tank

With all the winter boat shows and marine flea markets taking place in the next couple of months we thought we should issue a reminder regarding portable fuel tanks. The following article was supplied by Attwood Marine.

In an effort to reduce emissions from marine fuel systems, the EPA has created new regulations. These standards that went into effect on January 1, 2011, require that all new portable marine fuel tanks follow a zero-emissions policy. Therefore, fuel systems and their component parts needed to be re-designed to handle an inevitable build-up of pressure from limited ventilation, while still maintaining proper fuel flow and optimum engine performance.

Attwood Marine re-engineered their new fuel system components to handle tank expansion and keep the system safe under intense amounts of pressure and extreme temperatures. 

Within this “closed” environment, each component of the fuel system also increases the potential for restricted fuel flow. Attwood components work together to alleviate this risk and ensure engine performance by maintaining flow requirements for marine engines.

Attwood’s engineering team took a cue from the automotive industry that has been utilizing multi-layer construction for years to help meet safety and emission standards. Consequentially, their new specially designed portable fuel tank boasts multi-layer construction with strong automotive-grade materials. Designed with the new EPA regulations in mind, the fuel tanks are tough enough to handle the expansion caused from fuel pressure build-up that would be problematic for other fuel tank systems. Part of this can be credited to the automatic vacuum valve in the cap that, when necessary, gives the tank a breath of ‘fresh air’ helping the whole system consistently perform at an optimum level. 

Portable Fuel Tank

Features and specifications of the Portable Fuel Tank: 
• Proven automotive grade multi-layer construction withstands the pressure build up associated with closed systems 
• Engineered for harsh conditions, temperature extremes and abuse
• Injection molded interfaces eliminate leaks
• Tethered/ratcheting cap with automatic vacuum valve
• Available easy-to-read gauge

Eliminate wasteful and potentially harmful fuel emissions. Keep your investment running in top shape, and keep your fuel where it belongs – in your tank, when you use proven Attwood fuel system components.

Attwood Marine Products is the marine industry leader for fuel systems and accessories, with a reputation for our products’ durability and reliability. Enjoy being out on the water and keep your peace of mind with our fuel tanks, and other fuel system parts, all constructed to stand up to the pressure of the new EPA regulations. Visit the Portable Fuel and EPA Resources section of our site for further information on the new EPA regulations, potential effects of compliance, and the products that keep you safe and your engine performing.

Quick Tips to Ponder Part 7 – Mooring

We get many emails from fellow boaters with questions on all aspects of boating. One such question concerned the process of mooring.

“This is the first year that I will have to moor my boat off shore in a lake. Can you tell me how this is done and what to watch out for? My boat is a 25′ power boat.”

Many things depend on how you are going to get to your boat on the mooring. If there is a launch that simply drops you off, that eliminates one variable. If, however, you have a dinghy to reach the mooring, is the dinghy left there while you boat, or do you pull it behind you? The most important thing to remember when using a dinghy is not to get the dinghy painter (line) fowled in the prop of the boat.

Departing from and retrieving a mooring is much like anchoring. When departing, make sure your engine is warmed thoroughly and check other boats around you. All the boats should be pointing into the wind and/or current, whichever is greater. Make sure when you drop the mooring that you have sufficient room to get under way and establish steering control before you are blown or pushed into other boats.

Plan your departure path prior to dropping the mooring. Pull forward, into the wind or current, slowly until the mooring line is slack. I am assuming that the mooring line has a float on it so when dropped it is easy to pick up. If not, you should rig one. Once you are in a position to drop the mooring line, do so and back slowly, make your turn to a path that will lead out of the mooring area and slowly motor away.

When picking up a mooring, look at the other boats first. This will tell you the direction of wind or current, whichever is stronger. Approach slowly into the wind or current and shift to neutral when close enough to pick up the mooring line. (Don’t overshoot the mark and get the mooring line fouled in the prop.) Once the mooring line is retrieved, simply attach it securely to the bow and let the wind or current set the boat back on the mooring line.

You can find additional information on moorings and mooring procedures in Chapman Piloting and Small Boat Handling, the boater’s bible.

Safety Factors to Consider for Off Season Boating

Autumn…  The summer sailors have packed it in, the tourists have gone home, and the deserted inland and coastal waterways are peaceful and relaxing – relaxing until you get into trouble that is.  Although most boating accidents occur in July during the height of the summer boating season, the potential for serious injury rises dramatically in the off-season when there are fewer boaters and law enforcement officers on the water to provide assistance, or rescue. U.S. Coast Guard 2011 national accident data show that approximately one in 10 boating accidents in July involved a fatality; in December it was just over one in four.  That’s something to think about.

Swamping, capsizing, and falls overboard, and the sudden storms that can cause them, become significantly more hazardous in the fall and winter when water temperatures drop. The key to avoiding a crisis is to be thoroughly prepared before going out. Here are some things you can do to maximize safety when boating in the off-season:

• Dress in layers and take along extra clothing in a waterproof bag. Consider wearing a float coat/jacket.
• Wear good quality, non-slip footwear; wear socks, even with sandals.
• Take along a good first aid kit.
• Put together a basic survival kit, including blankets, a VHF-marine radio, matches, disposable lighter, some dense-calorie food, and warm beverages like coffee or cocoa.
• File a Float Plan.  Tell friends and family exactly where you’re going and when you plan to return.
• Boat with at least one other person, two is better. If someone is injured or falls in the water, the other can summon assistance or help them back in the boat.
• Consult a chart of the area where you’ll be boating.  Know where to wait for help and how to summon help, if you need it.
• Take a boating safety course as well as a first aid and CPR course.

Peaceful surroundings and fall colors make the off season a great time to enjoy the nation’s lakes, coastal areas and waterways. The U.S. Coast Guard, along with other federal, state, local, and Canadian agencies, is working to improve safety on the water.  So enjoy the quiet beauty, but for the sake of you and your passengers also take the time to plan for seasonal conditions and emergencies.

 The U.S. Coast Guard reminds all boaters to “Boat Responsibly!” For more information and tips on boating safety, visit http://www.uscgboating.org/.